The highlight of Antarctica was the ice.  Glacial fjords blanketed us in eerie serenity.  Ice bergs as large as shopping malls broke the flat seascape.  Smaller, eye-popping blue bergs dazzled with their delicately sculpted forms.  Various species of penguins populated the beaches, and we had several whale sightings.  The best wildlife encounters, though, were in South Georgia, where we walked among hundreds of thousands of penguins, including down covered 8-month old king penguin chicks.  Throughout the trip we saw seven different species of penguins, but that wasn’t all.  Fur seals and enormous bull elephant seals also sprawled and played on many of South Georgia’s beaches.  While deliberately reaching out to or touching the wildlife is forbidden, it isn’t at all uncommon to have a curious penguin or young elephant seal approach a tourist and nip at his boots or bump his leg.  Just remember not to touch the animal back and to watch out for the older animals who mean more serious business.

While planning our trip, we were naturally concerned about icy cold temperatures.  Overall, we had beautiful sunny days with temperatures in the 30s or low 40s, but we did have a couple of days with snow, drizzle, and biting winds.  Of course, we felt the cold; however, the stunning beauty and life of our surroundings overwhelmed our senses and warmed us with a sense of wonder such as we had never before felt.

Bill & Lynette Everson

We enjoyed the best of Norway’s history, ancient and modern.  Tidy colorful villages dotted the shore, but modern bridges connected islands to each other and the mainland.  Trondheim was our favorite large port, and Nidaros Cathedral was a pleasant walk from the dock.  Hundreds of fascinating sculptures adorn the exterior of the magnificent cathedral.  A few days later we took a bus excursion through reindeer country and sat in a primitive Sami tent, sampled reindeer broth, admired Sami crafts, and welcomed the warmth of a roaring fire while an icy wind howled outside.  Every port, even those we couldn’t explore due to time constraints, offered a captivating view of local life and geography.  Townspeople in the village of Oksfjord serenaded us with a small brass band concert. They made us feel right at home with tunes like “King of the Road” and “Sweet Sixteen” even though they knew we didn’t have time to disembark and aid their economy.

Since we were interested in the coastline and fjords, we selected a round trip ferry cruise rather than flying or taking a train back south from the Russian border.  However, we did begin our journey with a scenic train and ferry ride from Oslo to Bergen.  If you visit Norway, don’t miss this awe inspiring trip through lovely pastures, over rugged mountains, and past rushing waterfalls.  It truly set the stage for our memorable voyage.

Bill & Lynette Everson

My husband and I toured the islands with Lindblad Expeditions aboard the National Geographic Endeavour in May of 2010.  Our days were filled with hikes, zodiac rides, and snorkeling.  Guides, who were as personable as they were knowledgeable, introduced us to the unique wildlife of the islands.  Blue-footed boobies performed their courtship rituals as we stood within two feet of them.  Marine iguanas, lying on top of each other in great piles on the rocky shoreline, didn’t budge when we sat down next to them.  Sea lions merely blinked as we side-stepped them on the beaches, and they somersaulted right in front of our noses as we snorkeled.  Our only disappointment was not seeing a large number of Galapagos tortoises.  While we saw a few in a forest and many at the Charles Darwin Research Center, most of the prickly pear-eating tortoise population seen on television programs lives on an island that is not open to the public.  Still, we wouldn’t trade our time in the Galapagos Islands.  It was a rare opportunity to enjoy nature in intimate surroundings.

Bill & Lynette Everson